SKL's Walking Blog

Bornholm – 3

Dines Lille Maritime Café to Hammerhavn – 4th May 2025

Well I got a taste of what winter might be like here. The wind blew into my face for the first nine miles and the rain came at me almost horizontally. I was never so glad to find a small café open for a very welcome coffee and a warm up. Though I was so cold I couldn’t even figure out how to open the door until shown by the staff – embarassed old pensioner.
Despite the cold, and nearly losing my precious cap on a beach – imagine the elegance of me chasing a cap blowing away from me – it was a nice walk. Turning west away from the wind was glorious and the last few miles with it at my back along the north of the island was a nice finish.

The café hidden down the road from the mermaid. Very nice cappo.
I mean, it’s a lovely idea. Create camping shelters for the many tent laden folk doing the trek. But, what happens if you have committed to them only to find them occupied when you get her. Saddness ensures as you sleep on the ground again.
Can’t even see Allinge. The wind is bloody fierce – as you can see in my action shot.
Low cliffs broken by streams and accompanying upz and downz for a few miles.
Not sure I ‘d ever want to head down that one, even in the dry,
Bådsted and no let up. I don’t think I’m going to get any dry period today.
Approaching Tejn. The natural finger of granite mirrored by the standing stone erected by the DUP of the day.
The stone trolls to buy. If you have cash you just stick it in the box – how ever much you think they are worth – and take your pick.
Tejn harbour and I am hoping that something is open.
Yes, a bit of warmth and now into the cold again. Four young women playing chess in that café. Unusual at home but maybe all par for the course in Bornholm.
Sandkås Strand and not a soul about – don’t blame them.
Nearly at Allinge and maybe lunch today.
All the little towns and villages favour this yellow and red roof tile look.
The strange wooden edifice on the outskirts of Allinge. I think it is a tourist info place. Didn’t get lunch. It was fish buffets everywhere again.
Sandvig around the corner and the chimney of one of the many smokehouses. Just two miles until I can turn out of the wind.
The beach at Sandvig and the last headland heading north.
Back towards Sandvig and the nearly disasterous loss of my RipCurl Cap.
Always a bit strange to see monuments to local dead. People and legends we would never know.
The Hammerodde Fyr and the northern most point of Bornholm. Relief.
Like everywhere in Europe in the 1800’s – war. In this case they were defending the island against a takeover bid by the Swedes.
Mad Christian fuckers everywhere. Why build a church out here in the middle fo nowhere?
Hammerhavn and my lift awaits, Lovely.

Despite the cold and wind it was a nice day. Some low cliff climbs but again the course was accurate to predictions as to mileage, which always makes the feet feel good. Hopind for good weather tomorrow.