It was a nice morning but I didn’t get started until near 9 as I needed breakfast and the woman who runs the place was in the hospital. As to what was wrong – haven’t a clue. She told me long and loud but in rapid Portuguese with me nodding along as if I understood. She seemed happy at my efforts. A bit of a chilly on-shore wind started things off and I had to resort to my fleece for the first time. The initial climb unto the cliffs sorted that though. God but that wakes you up. Took me 3 hours to catch the usuals but we’ve had some changes. Wispy bearded rap Yout is no more. He has been replaced with Big American woman with her big camera who was in the way again today. A worthy opponent as it took me the best part of 4 hours to get past. Rule 1 of the road is that you pretend to stop for a moment to adjust something or take a drink so that you don’t have that creepy proximity for 30 mins or so. I may have just made that up but it sounds right to me. I don’t know what you call those yoga tights all you young’uns wear but by Christ the movement of her massive arse was hypnotic. I kept forcing myself to do the decent thing but it kept dragging me back. It’s a terrible state of things when a poor woman can’t be left in peace and free to waggle her arse as she wishes. But. See rule 1.
One of you wanted views of a room. This was from the White Rose last night. You can see the cliff edge along which I walked right past on my way into town. Rule 2. Always check Google maps for digs.Very nice place with a glass box bathroom. Can’t see your lower half when on the karzie but you can mime progress to your loved one.Leaving Almograve. Great restaurants.The first climb ahead. Only been going for 10.Up and puffing. Almograve behind.The usual sandy cliff tops. It is weird ploughing through sand when you’re up here.The path ahead. Boardwalk only lasted to that pier thing.That was an exciting one. Loads of loose rock and right on the edge. Funny thing is I don’t mind going up as much as going down. Mainly because I’m just focusing on my footsteps waiting on the surprise summit.You go through these dark little woods and pop out the other end into bright sunlight and right on the edge. I’m waiting on the woman in front to get down the very steep rocky slope. Rule 3. Don’t pressure the womenfolk. Her man is already at the bottom looking out into the void, ignoring her.I just got down that and they let me past, her giving him such a look. She has the climb I just came up in store. Muddy and wet, sharp steep rock. She’s bound to break one of those long manicured nails in the process.A little leafy lane for a K or so.Which borders these massive greenhouse farms. All the veg we get out of season comes from places like this. The map shows they go on for miles.All these behind. Makes me proud – a little.And all these to come.Wouldn’t want to try and get my dingy out through that harbour.Sitting having my café com leite and water at the half-way stage. That girl has knocked her table a-rye and has just left it. A bus load of Italians arrive and drive me onwards.Not sure of the value of a way-marker half-way down a rocky slope but they do keep putting them everywhere.Mirador Azenha do Mar where I had me coffee.Ha! An arch free from the attentions of a sleepy clumsy giant.Somewhere ahead is a river estuary where I turn inland. It’s in one of those coves but I’ll leave it as a surprise rather than look it up. Big chunk of rock just balancing on a pin point. Waiting to fall and crush some seal’s toes below.Praia de Odeceixe with the river behind.The town up ahead. It’s on top of a hill, of course. No flooded houses when the river’s in spate here.I’m well into my 4th hour and haven’t hit the wall today. Trekking down the last few miles on this road. Been keeping myself amused with the saga back at the slippy slopes and what she said to him afterwards. Perhaps, “Gabriel Shonberger the third, you is a white boy who took yor girl Joylen on holiday. I’s pected, hotels, massage, jacuzzi and pina coladas, not this mud and rock and grit. I aint blowin you fer this shit! Mmmh! No way, mister. I dun broke my nails!”Town across the river. That’s the hotel beside the building with the yellow shutters. I dun checked this time, boy.Finally some sheeps for Cora, along with a well curious goat.The bridge into town and a “say it loud and say it proud” sign.I’m wondering if the water has rusted these tin men and women into place.Now that’s a well.Stopped in the market to get some fruit for breakfast ‘cos I’ll need to leave early and thought about a bottle of this. What do ya think? There’s a special nozzle attached in a bag.
